Child's Top-Down Raglan Sweater with Plain Mock Turtleneck
For Super-Bulky Yarn
Pattern by Maureen Carden for afghans for Afghans
Sized for a big kid and to be worn over other garments. Finished chest circumference: 34". Sleeve circumference: 16". Depth of yoke, measured along the raglan "seam" (not straight up and down): 10". Sleeve length from underarm with ribbing turned up: 15" (18" with ribbing turned down). Length of body from underarm: 16". Yoke is knit down from the neck and shaped by paired increases, one on either side of four "seam" stitches. Shaping is minimal. No seams to sew. Sweater can be worked in one or two colors, or as you wish.
Yarn: Blue Sky Alpacas Super Bulky, 10 skeins (50% wool, 50% alpaca; 45 yards [41 meters];100 grams [3.53 ounces] per skein)
Gauge: 2 stitches and 3 rows = 1"
Needles: Size 15 circular or size to get gauge. For ribbing, use any size from 13 to 10 circular or double-points (depending on what you have on hand).
Notions: Large stitch holders or extra needles to hold stitches. Stitch markers. Tapestry needle.
Using size 15 circular, cast on 32 stitches and join in round.
Set-up round: Knit (k) 4 (left sleeve top), place marker (pm), k 1 (back left seam stitch), pm, k 10 (back), pm, k1 (back right seam stitch), pm, k 4 (right sleeve top), pm, k 1 (front right seam stitch), pm, k 10 (front), pm, k 1 (left front seam stitch), pm of a distinctive color to mark the beginning of the round.
Note: Now you will start increasing by knitting into the front and back (kfb) of the indicated stitch.
Round 1: Kfb first stitch after marker; k to last stitch before the next marker; kfb that stitch (left sleeve top increased to 6 st); slip marker (sm); k1(the left back seam stitch); sm; kfb the next stitch, k to last st before the next marker, kfb that stitch (back increased to 12 st); sm; k1 (right back seam st), sm, kfb the next stitch, k to the last stitch before the next marker, kfb that stitch (right sleeve top increased to 6 st); sm; k1 (right front seam st), sm, kfb the next stitch, k to the last stitch before the next marker, kfb that stitch (front increased to 12 st), sm, k1(left front seam st), sm. You have now increased 8 sts for a total of 40 sts on your needle.
Round 2: Knit, slipping markers along the way.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2, thus increasing in every other row by 8 sts, until you have 28 stitches in each sleeve top and 34 stitches in back and front (not counting the 4 seam sts).
STOP and check measurements. At this point, you have knitted 24 rounds. The raglan seam should be about 10" in length to ensure that the yoke is deep enough. A little longer is better than a little shorter.
Next round: Knit across the left front seam stitch, the 28 stitches of the left sleeve top, and the left back seam stitch (total left sleeve, 30 sts). Place the remaining back, right sleeve, and front stitches on holders. The working yarn is at the left back. For both sleeves, the seam stitches are added to their widths, and should NOT be added to the front or back widths.
Cast on 2 sts, with a marker between them to identify the center. Join the sleeve stitches in round. 32 sts on the needle. Continue to knit in rounds, slipping the marker, until the sleeve measures 2" from the underarm.
Next round (first decrease round): Knit to 3 stitches before the marker. Knit two together (k2tog) k1, sm, k1, k2tog (or ssk if you prefer). 30 stitches on needle.
Knit in the round until sleeve measures 4" from underarm.
Next round, decrease as in first decrease round.
Knit in the round until sleeve measures 8" from underarm.
Next round, decrease as in first decrease round.
Knit in the round until sleeve measures 10.5" from underarm.
Next round, decrease as in first decrease round. 24 sts on needle.
Knit another 2 or 3 rounds, as necessary, until the total underarm length is 12".
Next round: K2, k2tog around (6 sts decreased, 18 sts on needle).
Cuff Ribbing: Switch to smaller needle. K1, p1 around and continue in 1x1 ribbing for a total of 6" of ribbing. Total sleeve length, from underarm, is 18". Bind off LOOSELY. Cuff can be turned up for a shorter arm or down for more length.
Join yarn at right front and knit as for left sleeve, casting on 2 sts at underarm.
Join yarn at left front/start of round. Pick up and knit 2 sts in the 2 cast-on stitches under the left arm, placing a marker in the center of each pair of picked-up stitches to identify the underarm line to center future decreases. Knit 34 back stitches. Pick up and knit 2 stitches in the 2 stitches cast-on under the right arm, placing a marker between them. Knit the 34 front stitches. 36 sts front, 36 sts back, for a total of 72 sts.
72 sts at a gauge of 2 sts/inch is 36' body circumference. This is too big.
Now is your chance to adjust the body width to 34" as follow:
Knit 2 tog, knit until 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k2tog, knit until 2 sts before marker, k2tog (for a total decrease of 4 sts).
Continue knitting in rounds until the body measures a minimum of 13" from the underarm. If you have excess yarn (aside from what you need for ribbing and neck), you can continue knitting a few extra rounds here to make the torso longer for added warmth.
Switch to smaller needles and knit 3" of 1x1 ribbing. Bind off LOOSELY.
Using size 15 needles, pick up and knit one stitch for each cast on stitch of the neck. 32 sts on needle. Knit 6 rounds. Bind off VERY LOOSELY. As you knit each stitch, make sure you pull up a loop at least 1" long. These stitches may look huge, but once done, they'll look fine. Try on the neck. The neck should glide easily over your head! If it doesn't, it won't fit over anybody else's head either.
Weave-in loose ends using a tapestry needle or a crochet hook to skim the ends diagonally across inside surface of the fabric, in opposite directions, picking up just a few strands of each stitch across inside surface for two or three inches. Lightly steam block as needed.
Thanks to Maureen for this pattern. Thanks to Pam Taylor for testing the pattern and editing help. This pattern is designed to be even easier than the bottom-up raglan pattern previously posted by Lisa. Less shaping and less risk of insufficient underarm gusset space (bulky needs more ease), as well as the benefit of being able to add to length of torso and sleeves at the end.
(Photo and test-knitted sweater by Pam.)